Doggie In the Flowers

Tuffee walked through the field of lupines

10 Inch Howling Coyotes

Fun Times in Lost City

(Photo: Wriggling into a hole after I dropped my shoe in The Corridor in Lost City.)



A few Sundays ago, Maryana and I were to meet up in the Gunks. I'd been not climbing for a few weeks because everyone in my family was occupied with moving back into our renovated apartment. But I hadn't forgotten climbing, far from it! I was eager-- you might even say desperate-- to get back out there.



The forecast was iffy. Maryana was already up in the Gunks climbing the day before. She was able to climb for most of the day but around 5:00 p.m. the skies opened up. It began pouring with a vengeance. And once it started, it came on heavily, continuing into the evening without any prospect of slowing down.



Maryana sent me a text saying we might want to call it off. But I checked the forecast and it looked okay to me. The rain was supposed to stop overnight. The only question was whether it would be clear enough in the morning for the cliffs to get some sun. If the cliffs get air and light they dry off very quickly. But sometimes after a rainy night a wet fog will hang over the cliffs in the morning, making it impossible to climb until the afternoon. Often as not this doesn't happen, though, and you can get a full day in.



I was willing to take the chance if Maryana was. She was planning to stay overnight anyhow, so she agreed.



But the texts kept coming.



7:30 p.m.: "Still raining."



11:45 p.m.: "Still raining..."



As I caught the bus at Port Authority the next morning it seemed like things just might be all right. It was cloudy but there was no rain. By the time the bus reached New Paltz, however, it seemed quite damp and foggy indeed. Maryana and I lingered over breakfast in town, hoping it might brighten up a little. But the conditions remained unchanged. We decided we might as well go up and check out the wet cliffs.



Sure enough, as we came up the hill to the steel bridge we could see that both the Trapps and the Nears were engulfed in a thick cloud. But we could also see that it seemed much clearer just a little higher over towards Minnewaska.



That settled it. We decided to head up to Lost City.



Now before you nit-pickers get all indignant over the fact that I am talking about Lost City, I wish to remind you of something: there is no rule that you can't talk about Lost City. To the contrary, Lost City is frequently talked about. Climbers have long spread the word about their exploits at Lost City on the internet. Climbing personalities as esteemed as Russ Clune and Jim Lawyer have both posted about it, as have othersandyet others.



What you're NOT supposed to do is publish a guidebook about Lost City. And I won't be doing that. So no worries.



I don't think there is anything to fear in talking about the climbs at Lost City. The traffic there will never be that high, because there are only a handful of climbs that go at a grade easier than hard 5.10. And most of the climbs are more difficult than that. The place is a paradise for people who like to get a workout on single-pitch steep face climbs in the 5.11 to 5.12 range. The community of people who do this is relatively small. So never fear, the cliff will never be overrun with newbies who don't know what they are doing. It won't turn into another Uberfall or Peterskill. There just isn't that much climbing at Lost City for newbies to do.



But back to the subject.



On my first trip to Lost City last autumn, I didn't climb much of anything. I went with the dad of one of my son's friends. We brought our two boys along. The day was really for the kids. I only climbed one pitch, an easy corner that I led in order to set it up for the boys. But it was exciting just to be there and check out the possibilities. I really wanted to go back some time and do some of the climbs I looked at, like the huge 5.10 ceiling known as Stannard's Roof.







(Photo: My son Nate climbing at Lost City in the fall of . I'm sorry to say he hasn't worn these climbing shoes a single time since then!)



Apart from that first occasion, I had been to Lost City just one other time, in early January of . This was one of those bizarre, unseasonably warm days last winter when you could climb like it was October. Maryana, Adrian and I had thrown ropes over some climbs in and around a little canyon known as The Corridor. At the time I was feeling kind of out of shape and I didn't get up any of the climbs we tried cleanly. On Texas Flake (5.10+) I messed up an early move that was probably 5.9, but I did manage to salvage some pride by blundering through the crux on my first try. It took me a couple of tries before I got the low crux roof of Gold Streaks (5.11-) but the upper crux on a steep face went well. I really struggled with another 5.11+ called Red Wall and I got absolutely nowhere on a hard face climb called Caffeine and Nicotine (5.12).



When Maryana and I returned to Lost City the other week we just wanted to find something that was dry enough to climb. We didn't really care what it was. We walked along the cliff looking for climbable rock and in the process I saw a lot of Lost City for the first time. The cliff goes on for a while; it is bigger than I realized. We looked at the Wishbone roof (5.10 and soaking wet) and the famous Persistent (5.11+ and also quite wet). Maryana showed me the Lost City Crack (5.10). This is supposed to be one of the easier 5.10 climbs at Lost City, and it follows a vertical crack so the pro is good. It looks fantastic. Unfortunately it too was soaked.







(Photo: Starting up Texas Flake (5.10+) in January .)



Eventually we found that the only climbs that were dry enough to attempt were the ones we'd done before. The driest climb we found was the Texas Flake, so we did it first. This is a good 5.10, with nice moves throughout and a one-move reachy crux. We did it on top rope, like last time, but when I climbed it this time I tried to pay attention to whether there would be enough pro for me to come back and lead it some day.



This time I got through the first crux, a hardish 5.9 move, with no problems. But I couldn't immediately work out exactly how I'd solved the upper 5.10 crux the last time around and ultimately I took a hang. Then I figured out how to set my feet so I could make the reach, getting it on the second try. (Maryana got through the whole thing without a fall, I think, but she approached the crux in a way I thought must be much harder, using a terrible intermediate hold.) Now that I have the beta I feel sure I could send it on lead. The pro looks good to me. Placements seem available all along the flake down low, and it appears there are good slots protecting each of the crux moves. My only worry is that it might be a little run out during the easier climbing above the second crux.







(Photo: Further up Texas Flake.)



After Texas Flake we went over to Gold Streaks. Now this is a pitch that I think I will never lead. The initial overhang problem is well-protected, but the steep face above appears to me to have very few protection opportunities. It is super-steep and unrelenting for a long long way, a real endurance test with good holds but some big moves.



It is a great top rope problem, made harder for Maryana and me by the one spot of wetness: a puddle of water right where we needed to slap our hands to escape the overhang. We both slipped off of this crucial shelf a few times, but eventually we were able to stick the grab despite the wetness.







(Photo: Maryana starting up Gold Streaks (5.11-) back in January.)



I felt good about Gold Streaks because I ended up sending it bottom-to-top twice, doing it once via the left-hand start and once coming in from the right (much harder in my opinion-- Maryana and I each solved it in different ways, although she showed me a dropped knee trick that became a key part of my solution).



I enjoyed working Gold Streaks so much, it made me question my habit of coming to the Gunks and climbing new trad climbs all the time. I could see how people get really strong by working out on these hard top rope climbs. It still isn't my first choice, but I should maybe do it a little more often. It is fun.







(Photo: About to climb through the first crux on Gold Streaks.)



By the time we finished with Gold Streaks the sun had come out, and the cliff was drying out to some degree. We took a look around and saw that a route across The Corridor from the Texas Flake called Forbidden Zone (5.11) appeared to be dry enough to climb.



This one was new for me so I was psyched to check it out. Maryana started working it first and struggled with the first crux, a super-steep bit through a bulge with big reaches. You might recall that Maryana is still coming off of a bicycle accident that broke some bones in her back, forcing her to take off more than a month from climbing. I couldn't believe how well she was climbing given all the time off. Watching her sail up Texas Flake and figuring out Gold Streaks, I was amazed. So when she struggled with Forbidden Zone, I thought there was no way I was going to get up it.



But I surprised myself by getting through the bulge on my first try, helped no doubt by watching Maryana figure out most of the moves. There is a great rest stance after the bulge, and then another fun crux up a corner to the finishing jugs. I blew the sequence in the second crux, falling a few times. I couldn't find the hidden holds in the corner. Once I finally saw them, I figured it out.



After Maryana took another crack at Forbidden Zone, I went for the top rope send and got it! What a great pitch. Steep, sustained, with many great moves through the bulge, and then the devious corner awaits. I don't know about leading it. I didn't really suss out the pro, as the climbing is well above my leading level, for sure. And while the feeling of working it all out on top rope didn't match the thrill of, say, on-sighting CCK Direct on lead, it was still a fun climb and a really fun day.



I know I will be back.

Fire in the Sky

While driving down an old logging road off the Arrowhead Trail one evening, I came across this opening that had a grouping of trees that stood out nicely against the sky. I was passing by right after the sun had gone down and the sky behind the trees was filled with this beautiful orange glow.

"Home Field Advantage"

Montana locals schooling two of the visiting Oregon boys on "Home Field Advantage" just moments after the first ascent.



This climb and the photo has everything that I love about modern mixed routes. Bolts, natural pro, an obviously attentive belayer, and a sky pilot who is truly leashless!



How does that old saying go John? Something about, "One in the hand?"





The amazing action photo (and FA) is by the legendary Montana ice hardman, Pete Tapley. Make sure you dbl click the photo for full effect. And please respect Pete's copyright.







John pitching and Brian catching. Bird Boy John Frieh's training blog has a link here on C/T.





















And John again, just saying hello after another test of those angel wings :) Craig Gyselinck's photo

Balance - rest - mindfulness. And a competition.

Climbers I have just returned from a family holiday in Bali. Again. And I'm not entirely happy about it. Returning that is.However,while I was there I dropped in to Ubud Adventure, across the road from my sumptuous accommodation at De Ubud Villas. More on that later.There's no rock climbing to speak of in Bali, but the trekking is absolutely spectacular. So you'll need gear.



Win this T-Shirt from Ubud Adventure.

Just become a follower of jjobrienclimbing, leave a comment on this post, and check your letter box for your new T-Shirt.

First, you need a google account to become a follower.

Then scroll down the right side of this page to where it says "Follow" and join. Easy.

The rules:

The winning comment will make me laugh, impress me, or make me weak with pity. Or all three.

Your chances of winning are good.

I've only got 10 google followers and at least half of them don't want a T-Shirt. I'll give you a week, or so.



Ubud Adventure stockthe Indonesian Consina range of gear.

Packs, T-Shirts (like the one above), clothes, tents.













Madé and Sudantilook after the store.

They are so delightful.

If I had a shop I'd poach them.











Sudanti with the range of packs.Hundreds of them.Cheap.













Look for the big sign down the end of Hanoman st.where it swings in toward the Monkey Forest.

Ah, back to the Villa.

I think Willow sums up the mood of the holiday here, relaxing in the poolside balé.Sandra and Lotus at one of our fav restaurants, Casa Luna.







The extended fam. On the walk from Bentuyung to Ubud.







10 days. No climbing.Just cafes.Attending the Legong dancing at the palace, three times, I love it.Hanging with the family.











Q. Did you visit any agricultural areas during your visit?A. Um.....No?Q. Are you bringing in any more than $10,000.00 in cash?A. Are you kidding, have you seen how my family can shop?





We did a photo shoot for the Red Phoenix range of Jewellery and clothing while we were at the Villa.

Willow wearing "Black Jewels" necklace from the Red Phoenix range.

Lotus wears the "Batik Bella" shift and "Limoncello" necklace both from the Red Phoenix,Dolce Vita collection available from The TribuneLocation: Ku De Ta, Seminyak, Bali.

Climbers, I'll come clean. I didn't climb Agung this time, but here's a couple of shots from my last climb a year ago.

Mt. Agung - 10,300 ft or there abouts. It's steep, high, freezing cold, it smolders with sulphurand probably my very favourite place.

I've walked along this ridge a few times over the years. The path from Bentuyung, down to Ubud, through padi, deep dark gorges on either side.

I have often stopped and wondered how thevillage priestsdecide where to place the small shines that can be seen everywhere. Shrines to Dewi Sri, Goddess of the rice. I know the placement is important, but what is it about a particular place that makes it important?

Back at my forest home in Australia, one night, I dreamt that I could see the subtle energy that gives power to place. It was so effortless and obvious.

I felt fresh and strong. It reminds me to stay aware of subtlety as I hammer my way through the day.

Clay Pot & Cactus

Cow Rubbed Tree Knot

This is my favorite knot of those on the trunk of the old juniper tree that I like so much and tell the story of in the following photos, and posts.

SWPA ice conditions

I spent a couple hours this AM checking Laurel Highlands ice conditions for you icehounds.I've got somegreat news... Conditions are still sweet! Read on.

Ohiopyle State Park Lower Meadow Run is looking good and has survived the couple warm days. Plenty of ice to be climbed this weekend. Get on it while it lasts. Here are the lines as walking in on the approach trail.

Season Finale area looking good and climbable.

Hemlock L & R both very nice

Main Flow on the left is fat and the mixed lines are in perfect condition for sends

Didn't check the Upper Meadow Ampitheater on the parking side, but I'm guessing its in good shape too!

Cucumber FallsMore for novelty. Even when formed, the 12' of climbing after the cone isn't worth doing and quite dangerous.Here's what it looks like today. Not this season!

HIGH VOLUME WATER...

Irishtown is looking a lot better than it did last week when we were there. Its fat and blue ready to be screwed.This is the best its looked in years.

Mouth of Madness WI4+looking good. Top might be a little thin. Take your shorties!

Newer tomixed?This climbis for you! The Prow WI3+, M4 We did it last week, great fun. Topout left. Sling the bent tree in the middle (seemed to work well). Take a few small TCU's for the rock between ice. Great Turf shots at the top.

Looking out of the mine opening at the back side of Mouth of Madness, PA's version of the Mica Mine. Its possible to climb upsidedown for hundreds of yards. (Yo! Will Gadd where are you?)

Here's another shot of the futuristic roof 40' upfrom the aliens on the floor!

Melting Mount Rushmore inice aliens... Am I reaching on this one? Its MY blog...

The other areas in SWPA...

Beast WallThe Beast WI5+/6appears to be "in" Monsta WI5+/6looking a little"dicey". The right var. looking safer. left looking more balls out! (to me at least) Could build a little more by the weekend. I'd love to try Monsta!

Looking up the lines Monsta topout in upper left corner, The Beast on the right.



Right WallFrom Left to Right, G-Gully WI4+, Final Obligation WI5, The Awakening WI5, Unamed/Graded Torretti line, World of Pain WI5+, Called on Account of Security WI4R All routesin reasonable condition after the warm.

Infinite AreaShot from far away, sorry for the quality. The left line is The Infinite WI5 looking incredible. The SICK-le WI6 M5/6appears to have a fracture at the lip. Way too scary for me! I saw it come crashing down(extremely close up) once. That was more than enough! I'll wait...again

Well thats my photo report on the areas I visited. Hope it helps in your planning. This may be our last weekend in the area, so get on it while its fat. If you have any questions, please get in touch. If you have conditions reports, photosyou think are rad.Anythingyou'd like to share, getit to me. I'dbe happy to post it up for others to see. Thanks and hope to see you out there! -Tim

The PBR

The PBR or Professional Bull Riders is the only sport I really follow. I always said I would never get involved in a sport like some people do with football, basketball, baseball, soccer, golf (did you notice all of these are 'ball' games). The people who follow theses sports know all the players, and all the winners, and all rules, and all the big moments in the sport.

Well, I did get involved with a sport. But it is the 'roughest sport on dirt'. Most of the riders start in the minor rodeo events and work their way up to the PBR. It is a rough, hard climb to get there and most of the rodeo riders never make it. The top 35 riders in the rodeo bull riding events are allowed to compete in the PBR. They have to win points and money to qualify. Another words they have to be good at what they do and not be afraid of getting hurt. It isn't if you get hurt, it's when, 'cause it will happen.

I have been following the PBR since it was started 20 years ago and always wanted to go to the Ty Murry Event when it is held each March here in Albuquerque, NM. I finally got to go last Sunday for the last day of the 3 day event. It was fantastic.

The event might have been fantastic but my photos aren't. I'm still not that good with my new camera and in the flashing lights, spinning, whirling, bucking, bulls made for hard to take photos so I didn't get any really good photos. But here are a sample. The videos I took with the same camera did come out better but I can't get them to download.


There were a lot of noise and on the ground fireworks when it first started.



This is the cowboy and horse who's job it was to rope the bull and get it out of the arena if the bull didn't leave on his own. The area is the University of New Mexico Basketball arena. They bring in heavy tarps, then plywood, then tons and tons of dirt and the chutes for the bulls. It is the smallest arena of all the PBR events. It looks small on TV but looks even smaller when you are there.








The rider is getting onto the bull in the chute. The men with the rode are ready to open the gate when he says to.In the red shirt is Shorty, one of the 3 bull fighters that keep the bull off of the rider when he comes off. The ride is only for 8 seconds, if the rider can stay on that long, and usually they don't.







Flint Rassmussen is an ex-bull fighter turned comedian who entertains the fans while the riders are getting ready to ride.



This is Crag Hummer, a well known sports announcer, and Ty Murry, 7 time world champion all-round cowboy, who started the PBR, and announces with Crag. They are the ones that do the TV announcing but there is a different announcer that you hear if you are actually at the event. Our seat was just 6 rows from where they were sitting to do the TV part.



Got these out of order here, this is the winner of the event, Joao Ricardo Vieiro, one of the Brazilian riders, and his first event win. Since this is an International event there are riders from the US, Brazil, Canada, and Australia. And we like them all. Many people are fans of the bull more than the riders. At this event were the two most popular bulls, Bushwhacker and Asteroid, who have each won the Bull of the Year award.



Here is a view of the arena and the seats. Thats 40 very steep steps down to the bottom and we were close to the bottom. Great for seeing everything up close but climbing out was a workout.







After an event the bull riders circle the area signing anything you want them to sign. I got the autographs of 3 riders and as I was leaving the I almost ran into a retired rider that I have always admired, and whowon the PBR World Title of 1997,Michael Gaffney, who was nice enough to autographed my program.

If you want to know more go to www.pbr.com